Conflicting and Chaotic Times on the Camino de Santiago

As increasing numbers of pilgrims walk the Camino, a European network of historic pilgrimage routes, those who journey to “slow down” their lives often don’t recognize the burdens of tourism on locals.

We brush past each other like ghosts. A woman wearing a visor, khaki shorts, and a large backpack rushes ahead—her hiking poles determinedly tapping their way into the distance.

“Buen Camino,” she nods tersely.

“Buen Camino,” I echo back, watching her disappear around the bend.

“Buen Camino” translates literally to “Good Way.” It’s a trademark pilgrim acknowledgment unique to the Camino de Santiago, a network of UNESCO-recognized pilgrimage routes that span Europe and converge on the Galician capital of Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain.

On this day in September, I’m walking the Camino Francés, the most renowned route in the network, along with thousands of other pilgrims. The 500-mile, physically taxing route passes through four autonomous Spanish regions with diverse physical and cultural landscapes.

Most people take five weeks to complete the journey, though paces vary. By walking the Camino, I join a history of seekers navigating roughly the same “way” since the Middle Ages.